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Moschino - Toy Boy Review

I did a review of Penhaligon's The Tragedy of Lord George yesterday and I was genuinely surprised by how many comments I received (thank you very much!). Because I'm on leave this week and, let's face it, I aren't going anywhere, I'm happy to do some more. So here, without any further ado, is Toy Boy!
Perfume Notes
The perfumer for this is Yann Vasnier, who has worked with Tom Ford (Velvet Orchard, Vanille Fatale plus others) and Jo Malone (12 in total, although none that are familiar to my, admittedly, limited knowledge of fragrances).
Fragrantica lists the notes as:
Top Notes - Pink Pepper, Pear, Indonesian Nutmeg, Elemi, Bergamot. Heart Notes - Rose, Magnolia, Clove, Flax.
Base Notes - Haitian Vetiver, Cashmeran, Sylkolide, Amber, Sandalwood.
Parfumo goes with the same top and middle notes but references 'Ambermax' specifically as opposed to 'Amber' and, oddly, no Cashmeran.
The Moschno website says:
Olfactory group: spicy, woody and amber.
Top notes: Italian bergamot, pink berries, elemi, Indonesian nutmeg, pear, cloves.
Heart notes: Neoabsolut Orpur rose, flax flowers, cashmeran, magnolia.
Base notes: Haiti Orpur vetiver, ambermax, sylkolide.
Polished black glass bottle with silver finish (doesn't that sound simple and pretty!).
For reference, both Cashmeran and Ambermax are 'woody' compounds. The former is apparently akin to 'blonde' woods and has a spicy musk to it, and the later is akin to cedar (think pencil shavings!). Sylkolide, the remaining unusual name there, is apparently a fruity musk.
A lot of people have referred to Toy Boy as a masculine rose scent (what, because rose wasn't masculine before, eh!?) so what you might imagine here is a top note of pear and spices, with a woody/floral scent following on. Will it get close to that noble aim?
Perfume Background
I'll freely admit, I'm totally out of touch with what the kids are wearing clothes-wise nowadays. I like to dress smartly, but you're more likely to find me in a charity shop than in Flannels (one of the UK's 'high fashion' stores filled with ugly, ugly, clothing!). Because of that, I'd not heard of Moschino, who'll sell you a t-shirt with their name on for €195 on their website, when I blind bought Toy Boy. A female friend of mine was dead impressed, however, as it turns out they're a really trendy company and I'm now cool by association.
Their male clothing range is, to my eye, bright and colourful and undoubtedly poor value for money. It's designed for people who are young and don't want to be seen as playing by the rules. I'm in my early 30s and quite like wearing a tie. Am I out of touch? No, it's the children who are wrong.
Interestingly, Toy Boy isn't Mochino's first fragrance. They have, in the past, made fragrances designed to look like bottles of kitchen cleaner (because that's what you want from a fragrance?) and an actual proper furry teddy bear as a bottle (aka Toy)!
I would describe what Moschino write about Toy Boy themselves here, but I can't actually find the press blurb (shame, they're usually hilarious to read) but let's have a look at their marketi...what...the hell?.
...moving swiftly onwards, the 'Polished black glass bottle with silver finish' is in the shape of a teddy bear. That teddy bear does definitely not look like it's enjoying some bondage. I cannot stress that enough for my own sanity. Actually, cards on the table, I love the bottle design. I think it's quirky and I don't think most people would associate it with a 'toy boy' who's into the darker arts unless they were shown the marketing.
The Toy Boy offering is supported by Toy 2, which is apparently for the ladies and comes in a clear glass bear bottle (I'd really like to smell it).
The Scent
So, does Toy Boy smell like something you'd find on an actual toy boy? Is it a 'bondage fragrance'? Is it a masculine rose? I mean, it could be. It's certainly got a split personality.
When you first spray it, Toy Boy greets you with a shot of pink pepper. That's swiftly followed up by a 'watery pear'. Imagine a barrelful of cut up pears suspended in cold water alongside the pepper, some cloves, and perhaps some artificial sweetener.
This is Toy Boy at its most playful - it's sweet and spicy - a conservative might argue the pear is too sweet actually. I can't make up my mind. I smelt it yesterday and I got a sort of 'pear drop' smell on occasion from it (I don't know if other countries have pear drops, but it's a type of pear flavoured boiled sweet here). I smelt it this morning whilst writing this review, however, and I'm getting more spice than pear. This isn't unusual as I've been wearing this thing for two weeks and it seems to enjoy confounding me.
So where's the rose? Let's do some bizarre and clunky roleplay (...you just know that's what Moschino are in to).
Let's imagine you are a kinky bear and decide to go pick some roses. Like any bear, you go to find them in a forest, because you lack rudimentary knowledge of where it is best to look for them. That's where the rose is in Toy Boy - it's hidden. It's hiding in the woods and you're finding it hard to spot as your primitive animal mind is still confused by that barrel of spicy pears you walked past. This wood is filled with a variety of species of trees and, as you walk, you're breaking their dead branches all over the place; the scent of dry cut woods surrounding you.
In the middle of the forest, after walking for an hour, you find a mere. You gaze back at your reflection expecting to see the immature black teddy bear you thought you were. What stares back at you, however, is quite different. You are no bear - you are a man! You have a good job and responsibilities. You might even be married with kids. You're still fun, but you're also mature - wise and gentle, with a romantic rose-like heart that those who get to know you will appreciate.
Horrible imagery aside, this to me is what Toy Boy is. It's a very clever scent. It's schizophrenic showing different parts of its personality at different times. Yes, it can be sweet, but it can also be mature. It's also exceptionally well put together - there's a good deal of 'olfactory space' between the separate constituent parts that allow each of them to shine in their own way and that prevents it from becoming boring.
Furthermore, in a world full of men wearing Aventus and Sauvage along with their million clones, Toy Boy actually brings something unique to the table. I actually think the name and marketing count against it here as, whilst I do like the design, I don't think the scent represents what I imagine an actual toy boy smelling like. This is a scent for anyone that just wants to wear something a bit different.
Nor is it even just for a man. I know Toy 2 is technically the female version, but there's enough 'traditional' sweetness here for this to be worn by a woman and work very nicely.
Don't be confused by the pear, nutmeg and clove either - whilst they might sound like the sort of ingredients that would go into a winter recipe, the combination of these together never leans that way and it isn't heavy. This does not stray into winter gourmand territory - I think it's actually suitable for year round wear.
In terms of formality, you could wear this in a number of different scenarios - anywhere from a day trip out with friends to a smart casual office environment. I wouldn't wear it to court, but then again I'd probably not buy a fragrance if its most appropriate application was for when you were in the dock.
The Price
Moschino are an expensive fashion brand, so you might have thought the price of entry for Toy Boy would be at the upper end. Well, you've been confounded again! 100ml of this can be had for about £50 if you look around (it also comes in 30ml and 50ml, as well as an aftershave balm and a shower gel, I think). I picked up the 30ml for £20 as a blind buy and my only regret is that it is only 30ml.
I don't want to recommend this as a blind buy (I don't think I'd recommend anything as a blind buy, actually, even though I do do them!) but, if you like pear, spices, rose and wood, then you need to check this out. I've seen official samples floating around on Ebay for a couple of quid - what have you got to lose? At the worst you've educated yourself on another fragrance and, if you love it, you've got yourself a new Toy Boy.
EDIT: If you're in the UK, I've just seen Notino have this on sale - £24.50 for 50ml. That's a good price. https://www.notino.co.uk/moschino/toy-boy-eau-de-parfum-for-men/p-16006251/
In Closing
Hope this review is of interest to people! If you'd like me to review any other scents I have:
Penhaligon's: Oud De Nil, Orange Blossom, Castile, Luna, Changing Constance, Terrible Teddy, Agarbathi, Halfeti Leather. New in! Cairo, Opus 1870 and Douro Eau de Portugal
Jo Malone: Blackberry and Bay
Paco Rabanne: Pure XS
Beauty Pie: Brazilian Lime, Fig Leaves and Tea
Viktor and Rolf: Spice Bomb
Swiss Arabian: Shaghaf Oud
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Vanilla fragrances for vanilla skeptics

My issue: I like the smell of vanilla, but I don't like pretty much every vanilla-heavy perfume I've ever tried. I don't like gourmands or sweet perfumes. I don't want to smell like a cake, a cookie, berries and cream, or a cuddly little kitten. No offense to anyone who does, but those aren't my vibe. Previously I have just avoided any perfumes that have vanilla as a main note, but lately I'm trying to challenge my preconceptions about which perfumes I do and don't like.
So I got a few samples of some unconventional vanilla perfumes that are not sweet, are not gourmands, and where reviews suggest they show a different side of vanilla. I figured I would share my impressions in case anyone else is in the same boat.
Vanille Insensee by Atelier Cologne
It has a somewhat sharp opening of lime, coriander, and vanilla. The green oakmoss and vetiver comes through quite early, and with the lime makes for a surprisingly green take on vanilla. It stays fairly linear on the dry down, as an interesting combo of vanilla with tangy green notes, although the lime fades in favour of a clean vetiver and coriander. Completely dry, not at all foody. Unisex. Fresh, green, and easy-wearing, it could be a summer vanilla scent.
Vanille Tonka by Nicolai Parfumeur Createur
The opening is slightly playdough-ish tonka and bitter lemon peel, which fairly quickly separates into carnation, black pepper, tobacco, and tonka. It’s quite dry, and more a spicy floral than anything gourmand. There’s a bit of mandarin and the orange blossom, but I don’t consider it a citrus scent either, and after the first 5 minutes it doesn’t have a juicy/sour snap that I think of when I think citrus. The dry down is a spicy black pepper, tonka, and incense, with a bit of a playdough note that reminds me of Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleu and several other Guerlain fragrances. The vanilla doesn’t come to the fore until late in the dry down, when it is dry, very peppery, and smoky. It’s pretty unisex, not at all sweet, and despite the pepper and the vanilla I would not at all call it a gourmand. It's pretty light and lively, somewhat unusual and complex, and suitable for day wear and wearing year round.
Lune Feline by Atelier des Ors
This is a big powerhouse of a scent. Opens full on smoke with a faint whiff of wood, more a campfire than incense. It's sweeter than either of the others, but only lightly sweet and not at all foody, and the sweetness fades over time. It stays smoky, but with stronger woods and balsam as it dries and a tiny bit of cinnamon spice, although it risks dipping into ashtray territory a bit later on once the sweetness fades. I can’t overstate how different it is than Vanille Tonka, which looks similar on paper as a smoky, spicy dry vanilla. Where that one is peppery and lively this one is deep and languid and plush. It reminds me a lot of Kerosene Copper Skies, but centered around vanilla rather than amber, with woods as the main secondary note instead of spice. Surprisingly unisex, but very sexy, this may be too heavy for daytime wear. From my three vanillas-for-vanilla-haters this reminds me the most of a classic vanilla, as although it isn’t a gourmand or at all juvenile it’s still a big plush scent rather than being fresh or clean.

Although I didn't intend to do it, I think I chose a good three to try to get an idea of the range that vanilla has outside of gourmands and cutesy fruit-based perfumes. I basically ended up with a green vanilla, a peppery vanilla, and a smoky vanilla and all of them worked really well. I've already ordered a decant of Lune Feline for my date night perfume. I should note, all three had decent sillage, with Lune Feline having strong sillage, and all three had excellent longevity. I could smell all three on my sweater the next morning without sticking my nose in the fabric, and when I wore the sweater again the next day Vanilla Insensee actually transferred back to my skin.
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What is your hidden gem? And why have you never shared it?

Rummaging through my collection looking for a fragrance I came across some of my hidden gems. I want to share them with you because they are too nice to continue to keep to myself. They are all affordable. They have their own beauty. To me they make me stand taller. They make me feel like a beautiful women who loves life and can take it head on. They are not complex fragrances but they are me.
1)She Wood, Dsquared its a lovely fresh violet forward floral with lemon and jasmine and Vetiver woods and musk on the dry down. The hotter the weather the better the heliotrope comes forward. It's a hit.
I don't share it because it brings out my hidden girly- girl, my romantic side which if you know me personally that side isn't seen very often.
2)Baiser Vole, Cartier This is my ice queen out of the fridge chilly, classy with fresh lily the leaves and the stems this is freshy and it has a sweetness and powder but it's not a powdery sweetness the powder is light it feels like just to carry the freshness of the scent. I wear it winter and summer. This is a fragrance that holds everything together. This would be a good interview fragrance. You may not feel confident but this fragrance says put together confident woman.
This can wear you if you don't know what's up.
3) Eternity Air, Calvin Klein love this if you love Aqua di goia you will like this. This is a more airy fresh sheer Aqua di goia. I like this on a hot hot summer day when you want something that won't sour or fade quickly, because we all sweat.
I don't share this because people talk sh+t about CK so if you miss out ,you miss out, you fragrance snob you. CK is one of the best out there for summer fragrances that last without constantly respraying.
4)JPG Classic Essence de Parfum Intense. This little lady is spicy but in a nice way. With a whipped cream topping orange blossom and jasmine. Then a woody spicy dry down. What like about this is it has a waxy smell which when I smell the max smell I know it's got alot to give before the dry down it continues to evolves over the wear of the fragrance. this is not a heavy fragrance it leaves a soft delicious creamy scent bubble.
Why I don't share. Only I can smell this good. That is all.
So these are my hidden gems. Share any thoughts feeling or opinions or questions you have. Their are some summer because I tend to shop for fragrances off season. Please share you favorite hidden gems.
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The Neverending (sampling) Story: 50 and more quick reviews

F28, Switzerland. I might have been obsessed with collecting samples for the last two months? Sooo, inspired by others posts and users, I thought I'd share with you some quick reviews about them! I've also blind bought (BB) a few bottles since last september. I know very little about fragrances, my nose is basically untrained, and English is one of my secondary languages. I hope you'll enjoy reading it as much as I did writing it!

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Reviews of 29 of Nui Cobalt's Autumn I and II Perfumes

This review post contains a mix of samples and full size bottles that I purchased with my own money and PR samples that I was sent from Nui Cobalt. I indicate which items are PR samples with this ❇️ emoji.
I was honoured that Josh from Nui Cobalt reached out to me to see if I was interested in reviewing Nui Cobalt perfumes. Since Nui Cobalt is taking down the Autumn I and Autumn II collections on February 17, 2021, I wanted to write reviews on the perfumes I have (both from PR and from my own purchases) from these collections before they’re taken down. Hopefully this helps anyone who is waiting to make a purchase with their decisions!

My Experience with Nui Cobalt

I previously heard about Nui Cobalt through IMAM but did not try Nui Cobalt until 2020. 2020 was definitely my indie exploration year!
My first Nui Cobalt purchase was from their Bees Collection; I love honey in perfumes so it was a no brainer purchase for me. I ordered a sample of Liquid Luck and when my package arrived and I smelled it, I immediately went and purchased a full size of Liquid Luck. Liquid Luck continues to be my favourite perfume from Nui Cobalt. From there, Nui Cobalt has quickly become one of my favourite indie perfume houses. There’s a lot to love about Nui Cobalt:
One thing I want to mention is that when Nui Cobalt reached out and asked if I wanted some samples to review as PR, they were open to the fact that I’m based in Canada. They also let me combine the PR samples with my order of Yule perfumes. My package shipped pretty quickly from Nui Cobalt but unfortunately got stuck in customs limbo for over a month. When I reached out about my package (because it seemed like it was lost at that point), Josh offered to replace the items I purchased and the PR samples. Coincidentally, the day after I got an update that my parcel had cleared customs so it didn’t end up being necessary! I ended up receiving my package until mid-January 2021.
But this isn’t a typical shipping experience for me with Nui Cobalt. I ordered some samples from the Valentines 2021 collection on January 22nd and I’ve already received my order. :)

My Perfume Preferences

I prefer high longevity in my perfume; I want my perfume to at least last through a full workday. Sillage is less important to me than longevity, but I do want to be able to smell it without having to hold my wrists to my nose.
I would describe myself as open to different perfume notes though I gravitate towards florals, forest scents, and certain gourmands (e.g., gingerbread, pumpkin spice lattes). I find that I amp smoke, oudh, and motor oil / grease.
My experience with Nui Cobalt perfumes is that they typically have low-medium sillage (though some have higher sillage) with good wafting but not overpowering. Longevity is also usually a full work day.

Reviews

Perfumes that were provided as PR samples are indicated with a ❇️ emoji. For the PR samples, I included a short bullet point on what the perfume smelled like after <24 hour rest because I thought it may be fun to see how the fragrances changed with rest.
I applied perfumes on clean non-scented skin with at least two weeks of rest (ones I purchased have more resting because I have had them longer).

Autumn Part I Collection

❇️ Appalachian Autumn (Notes: Deer musk accord, campfire smoke, birch trees, angelica, ripe pears and rain)
Thoughts: Low sillage and low longevity (started fading 4 hours into wear). I wore this without first reading the notes so I thought it was a really green scent. I got a lot of fruit notes which I thought may be blueberries or apples but I can see now that it was the pears. Similarly, the dark green notes I got from this perfume were likely the birch tree and Angelica. I didn’t get notes that came across as deer musk accord or campfire smoke.
Cauldron Cider (Notes: A warm brew of honeycrisp apples simmered for days with ginger root, black clove bud, cardamom, cassia, and star anise)
Thoughts: Low sillage and medium longevity (began fading after 5 hours). I destashed this scent but that is because I’m not big on apple perfumes. I got a distinct candy scent when this perfume was first applied, maybe because of the sweetness in the honeycrisp apples? As the scent wore though, it is distinctly an apple cider perfume. Lovely and warm.
❇️ Daughter of the Dark Moon (Notes: Black coconut, nocturnal jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, white sandalwood, dried lavender, sheer cotton, and a trace of Tahitian vanilla)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and high longevity (8+ hours). This perfume is well-blended; I found it difficult to pick up on individual notes. The most prominent notes, to me, are the white florals (nocturnal jasmine, tuberose, and gardenia). The Tahitian vanilla emerges to lend a sweetness to the perfume. They are not overwhelming, instead, the other notes work to support the white florals so that the effect is like wearing a gauzy summer shawl. The white florals aren’t heady or overwhelming but drape around you. This is a good summer into fall transition scent. If you’re afraid of white florals, this may be a good perfume to try.
Favorite Sweater (Notes: White oak and blonde teakwood, copal resin, crushed coriander, lamb's wool accord, a touch of creamy chai, and a spritz of green mandarin)
Thoughts: Medium high sillage and high longevity (7+ hours). I did destash this perfume because it wasn’t for me. The lamb’s wood accord is definitely here and it’s unreal how much it smells like a wool sweater; it’s fuzzy and has an animalic note. The other notes combined though to smell like a cologne, and that wasn’t for me. It’s almost like you’re wearing a favourite wool sweater that was recently worn by a rugged man (to me).
Ghost Cat (Notes: Cashmere, white amber, and ethereal ivory musk with blushing peony and pink peppercorn toe beans)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and high longevity (7+ hours). I was drawn to this perfume because “pink peppercorn toe beans” is an evocative image and the other notes sounded great. The perfume opens with the ethereal ivory musk. This scent initially reads as “cologne” to me but that element disappears as it dries down. The pink peppercorn note emerges on dry down and adds a vibrant note to a fuzzy perfume. The peony is a supporting player; it adds sweetness to the spice. The overall perfume is soft and cuddly, accented with the floral spiciness from the peony and pink peppercorn notes.
Ginger Cat (Notes: Crystallized ginger and raisins baked into warm pumpkin bread with caramel drizzle, candied orange peel, homemade apricot jam and the subtlest sprinkle of cardamom)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and high longevity (started fading after 7 hours). I have two ginger tabbies so I am a sucker for anything related to ginger cats (see also my purchase of Little Brown Rabbit). This is a warm, cozy, and soft pumpkin bread perfume. The crystallized ginger and cardamom add a slight bit of spice to the pumpkin bread but it’s not a spicy scent. This is the smell of freshly baked pumpkin bread, fresh out of the oven topped with sugary sweetness. This scent is lovely for cold fall and winter evenings.
Grey Cat (Notes: Dry smoked vanilla, fluffy marshmallow creme, fresh blueberries, the gentlest touch of lavender and a warm cup of Earl Grey)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and high longevity (8+ hours). Opens as a very cozy, creamy blueberry scent. It starts off with a slight medicinal tang (likely the blueberries) but that quickly leaves and you’re left with a fluffy creamy scent, with blueberries. I don’t get a distinct “Earl Grey” scent but it likely adds to the coziness of this perfume.
Lighting Storm (Notes: Petrichor and ozone, electrified metal, cold musk, bergamot, lime zest, cracked pink peppercorn, copal smoke, Indian myrrh, and teakwood)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and low longevity (faded after 4 hours). This perfume opens with strong ozone and petrichor and it does honestly smell like electrified metal which is unreal! I will be destashing this perfume as it isn’t for me. If you’re looking for a scent that smells like the beginning of a thunderstorm in Autumn, this may be a good one to try.
Starlight and Spidersilk (Notes: Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, and tiny black vanilla beans)
Thoughts: Low sillage (to me) and high longevity (8+ hours). This is a really interesting vanilla perfume; it’s definitely cold but somehow still soft and cozy. I really like this note and I like that Forest has started using it in more blends. :) As I mentioned, I went anosmic to this perfume for a period of time. Other people could smell it on me but I just couldn’t. This happens to me sometimes with other vanilla dominant fragrances and I don’t know what causes it (looking at you, NAVA Bourbon Vanille)
❇️ Trembling Aspen (Notes: Sunflower petals, delicate strands of saffron, crystallized ginger, and candied kumquat)
Thoughts: Medium-high sillage and longevity (wore for 8+ hours without fading). I found this to be a well-spiced savoury gourmand - I attribute this to the saffron and crystallized ginger. I really enjoyed this scent. It was creamy, smooth, and pleasantly spicy.

Autumn Part II Collection

Au Bal Masqué (Notes: Nepalese virgin cashmere, cotton flower, vanilla spun sugar, labdanum, and the wafting memory of white funeral lilies)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and medium longevity (faded by 5 hours). This is an interesting sweet floral scent; the cashmere adds a creamy dryness to the perfume which tempers the vanilla spun sugar note. The lilies are apparent but not overpowering. Really lovely!
❇️ Bad Moon Rising (Notes: Wild violets, Adirondack blueberries, star anise, blackcurrants preserved in maple sugar with clove and a touch of almond)
Thoughts: Low sillage and low longevity (faded after 4 hours). The blueberries and violets are the most prominent notes in this perfume. It opens with a blast of realistic tart blueberries. This reads as a medicinal note to me but it’s only present when first applied. The violets make themselves known on dry down and add an element of purple to the perfume, as well as a bit of powder characteristic of violets. The maple syrup and almond emerge as the scent wears; the maple adds a hint of sugary sweetness while the almond lends a creamy element to the perfume.
❇️ Blue Moon on Samhain (Notes: Smooth driftwood glistening with sea salt, pearl gardenia, oat milk, coconut flesh, forget-me-not, neroli, and a trace of lavender)
Thoughts: Low sillage and low longevity (faded after 2 hours). This perfume is really well-blended, to the point that it’s difficult to pinpoint certain notes. The driftwood and sea salt create a really smooth and cold wood base; it’s not dry like cedar. I think that the other notes blended together to add to the smoothness of this fragrance.
❇️ Calico Cat (Notes: Tawny suede, pale sandalwood, toasted coconut, deep amber, and golden honey are accented with bright satsuma, and spiced tamarind)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and medium longevity (faded around 5.5 hours into wear). This is a cozy and comforting perfume. The tawny suede note smells like musky soft cat fur. I believe that what I was interpreting as “apple pie spices” are the golden honey, bright satsuma and spiced tamarind notes. I wouldn’t say I picked up on sandalwood or coconut as distinct notes, but I think they are supporting notes that create a cozy enveloping perfume.
Crone’s Cottage (Notes: Oatmeal cookies still warm from the oven, beeswax candles on the windowsill, a warm cup of strong black tea with milk, and a generous dollop of honey)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and medium longevity (began fading around 5 hours into wear). This really smells like oatmeal raisin cookies that just came out of an oven. But these are premium quality oatmeal raisin cookies; the raisins are juicy golden raisins. Really delicious gourmand.
Drunk Pumpkin (Notes: An oversized pumpkin punchbowl filled with hot apple cider, Caribbean dark rum, Tennessee whiskey, cinnamon sticks, ginger root and a twist of lemon)
Thoughts: Low sillage and medium longevity (began fading 5 hours in). I destashed this because it’s more of an apple cider scent than I expected and I’m not big on apples. However, this is a nicely dark and spiced apple cider scent. The dark rum notes are more evident to me than the Tennessee whiskey. Drunk Pumpkin is a unique take on an apple cider perfume; the apple cider is well spiced and the alcohol notes don’t come across as boozy but add a depth to the perfume. Cauldron Cider differs from Drunk Pumpkin because Cauldron Cider is more sweet and lacks the same depth as Drunk Pumpkin.
❇️ Entombed (Notes: Cemetery stones enshrouded in mist, wild English lavender, blue chamomile, rain, and freshly turned earth)
Thoughts: Low sillage and low longevity (began fading 3 hours in). This would be a really lovely sleeping scent because the lavender and chamomile aren’t astringent, and the other notes combine to create a lovely plush herbal scent. The cemetery stones, freshly turned earth and rain create a lovely back drop for this scent too.
Exsanguinated (Notes: Mulled wine infused with blood orange, pomegranate, and cherry, smoldering dragon's blood resin, and a velvet-lined mahogany coffin strewn with red roses)
Thoughts: Low-medium sillage and high longevity (8+ hours). This is a lovely late Autumn evening scent. The mulled wine is deep and dark red; the pomegranate, cherry, and blood orange add a dark fruity element which is complemented by the dragon’s blood resin. I don’t get distinct red roses or mahogany. Really beautiful scent.
There is similarly between Exsanguinated and Seduced by Spidersilk but they are more like distant cousins rather than twins. Exsanguinated is a deep warm dark fruit scent. In contrast, Seduced by Spidersilk is a lighter and more juicy perfume.
Flaming Pumpkin (Notes: Woodsmoke, burnt brown sugar, two types of patchouli, fresh ginger root, and Jarrahdale pumpkin pureed with nutmeg and a spritz of blood orange)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and medium longevity (started fading 4 hours into wear but still around by the 7th hour mark). I destashed this one because I have other gourmand pumpkin scents I prefer. I would describe this as a Pumpkin Spice Latte scent for people who don’t like Pumpkin Spice Lattes (also there is no coffee in here). It’s a warm and well-spiced pumpkin; very foody. Not much of a morphing scent so if you like it in the beginning you’ll like it throughout the wear.
Pale as Death (Notes: Funeral lilies, datura accord, luna moths on cotton flowers, and white clover along a graveyard path)
Thoughts: Low-medium sillage and medium longevity (started fading 5 hours in). I prefer Au Bal Masque over Pale as Death so I will be destashing Pale as Death. This is mostly a lily scent to me; there’s something in here that comes across as laundry-esque and I’m not sure what note is giving that effect. I don’t get anything I recognize as white clover or datura accord. It’s an interesting scent but not for me. People who love laundry scents may enjoy this as it has a floral twist.
❇️ Perseids (Notes: Crisp night air, freshly cut firewood, dewy grass, flannel, rhubarb, white currant, and clove bud)
Thoughts: Low sillage and medium longevity (started fading after 5.5 hours). This smells like a humid summer evening, laying on freshly mown grass. It’s truly stunning and if you enjoy grassy green scents, I recommend this one. If Nui Cobalt’s Liquid Luck is a grassy Spring / Summer day, this is the evening scent. :)
Pumpkin Cupcake (Notes: Whipped white pumpkin between layers of angel food cake, marshmallow frosting, and a light dusting of allspice)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and low longevity (faded after 4 hours). This perfume opens as a yellow vanilla cupcake. The allspice becomes apparent during the dry down but I found it was a top note; it didn’t stick around long. I was left with a gourmand creamy cupcake. I didn’t get any distinct pumpkin notes, but I also don’t know what white pumpkin smells like. I destashed this perfume because I liked Pumpkins and Spidersilk more.
Pumpkins and Spidersilk (Notes: Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, pumpkin chai, hot cinnamon rolls, nutmeg, clove, allspice, and a scant drop of honey)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and high longevity (8+ hours). I found that the Spidersilk accord was less prominent in this blend; the spices were dominant so this is definitely a warm perfume in comparison to Starlight and Spidersilk. However, as previously stated, I am partially anomsic to the Spidersilk accord so that may just be me. The pumpkin chai and spices in this perfume are really lovely; this is a soft and warm perfume.
Scaredy Cat (Notes: Tobacco flower, nag champa, white amber, warm fur accord, Omani musk and molten caramel)
Thoughts: Low sillage and medium longevity (faded after 6 hours). I will be destashing this; it’s okay but not unique to my collection. The perfume opens with more sweet caramel but I found that it wasn’t actually that sweet when wearing it. The white amber and musky fur notes are the most prominent; the other notes accent the perfume.
Seduced by Spidersilk (Notes: Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, cherry wine, dragon’s blood and amber resins, tupelo honey, and an irresistible blend of aphrodisiac spices: cardamom, clove, ginger root, coriander, and cassia)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and extra high longevity (11+ hours). The Spidersilk accord is distinct when you smell the bottle but once applied the other notes become prominent. It is a juicy, spicy, muddled cherries and berries scent; very “dark purple” smelling. The spices fade into the background so you’re left with a sensual perfume that is akin to smelling mulled red wine, without the alcoholic scent. Really lovely scent for late Fall.
❇️ Stories & Spidersilk (Notes: Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, aging leather-bound books, pipe tobacco, and towering wooden shelves)
Thoughts: Medium sillage and high longevity (wore for 8+ hours). Nui Cobalt’s Spidersilk note is lovely - it’s a cold vanilla, not gourmand. I tend to go anosmic to the Spidersilk accord for a period of time (I can smell the opening and maybe 20-30 minutes after it’s dried down, but it disappears on me). This is a lovely creamy vanilla scent, from the Spidersilk note to the books, pipe tobacco, and wooden shelves. As the scent wears, the leather becomes more apparent but not in an over-powering way. Really beautiful.
Wicked Pumpkin (Notes: Sandalwood musk and dark patchouli with maple sugar, peach skin, cardamom, and freshly baked pumpkin pie)
Thoughts: Low sillage and medium longevity (faded after 7 hours). When I first received this perfume, it smelled kind of odd and disjointed between the sweet pumpkin and sandalwood musk. However, rest really helped this perfume. It’s now a really sticky sweet dessert pumpkin with an accent of spices and sandalwood. It’s a well-blended sensual gourmand.
The Widow Wore Red (Notes: A shameless concoction of spiced plum, lascivious musk, patchouli, tart cherry, sweet pipe tobacco, warm gingerbread drizzled with vanilla caramel dusted with clove, coriander, and cardamom)
Thoughts: Low sillage and medium longevity (faded after 5 hours). This scent is a bit of a morpher; it opens as a spicy gingerbread loaf but over time, the fruit notes become more apparent until eventually the gingerbread loaf is gone and you’re left with dark fruits. Really interesting perfume - I like the dichotomy between the warm gingerbread loaf and the sensual dark fruits. I’m destashing it but only because I have since tried Nui Cobalt’s Gingerbread Sanctuary and I prefer the gingerbread in that perfume.
Woodsmoke & Spidersilk (Notes: Slender strands of cotton flower hung with trembling dewdrops, cold crystalline musk, tiny black vanilla beans, aged oakwood, roasted pistachio, mahogany, oud, Peru balsam, amyris, and toasted marshmallow)
Thoughts: Medium-high sillage and medium longevity (lasted ~7 hours before beginning to fade). This opens with a warm wood scent, like wood chips. The roasted pistachio adds a delightful nuttiness to the fragrance but it was a short lived top note on me. The smoke element became dominant on dry down. The Spidersilk accord did appear and added a slight cozy cold vanilla feeling but was a supporting note for this perfume. This is a lovely fire warmth scent.

Conclusion

TL;DR:
Top perfumes from Autumn I and II collections:
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Penhaligon's Trade Routes Review Super Post (Inc. Halfeti, Halfeti Leather, Cairo, Agarbathi and Oud De Nil)

OK, so off the back of some really great feedback and discussion after my reviews of Penhaligon's The Tragedy of Lord George and Moschino's Toy Boy, I got a few requests for other fragrances from the Penhaligon's line. As it happens, I received Cairo yesterday, and I've just got my hands of Halfeti today. That puts five samples from their Trade Routes collection in my possession (three of which I think have actually been discontinued). Because of that, and because I think four of them are 'of a piece', I'm doing this as a 'super post'. The outlier here is Oud Di Nil, which goes on a different trip. Anyway, let's crack on, as I'm doing butter chicken tonight and it might take some prep.
Perfume Background
As stated above, all the perfumes listed form part of Penhaligon's Trade Routes line which launched in the mid-2010s. It's obviously had some success as they keep releasing new products as part of the line, whilst also discontinuing others. The most famous of these is undoubtedly Halfeti, which has been a hit for Penhaligon's since launching in 2015 but, much like their 'Portraits' collection, all of these fragrances follow a particular theme which is born out of Penhaligon's brand history .
For the uninitiated, Penhaligon's are a British company founded in the 1860s and the image they present of themselves is strongly aligned with the well to do. This isn't a lie either - Winston Churchill was apparently an avid wearer of their 'Blenheim Bouquet', and James Bond associated himself with them in the Ian Fleming novels. It'd be fair to say, therefore, that Penhaligon's, as a brand, can be described as traditional and critics might call some of their previous fragrances stuffy and old fashioned today. Indeed, having recently sampled some of their older formulations 'Opus 1870' and 'Douro Eau De Portugal' I would agree with that assessment strongly (they really warrant their own review, perhaps lined up against Sartorial, one of Mr. P's more recent offerings).
So, how do you take a company that has a famous legacy but is now perceived as past it and revamp it without losing its heritage? Easy - you pay a marketing company a lot of money (probably) to come up with a brand strategy, and then you create new modern smelling fragrances around that strategy. Nobody likes stuffy gentleman walking around in double breasted suits (I'm looking at you, Jacob Rees-Mogg), but they do like the concept of quirky British upper-class eccentricity ala Jeeves and Wooster (the 'Portraits' line), and they do respond well to themes based around Empire ('Trade Routes').
I take nothing away from the marketing people in this regard because, for all the blood us Brits charmingly spilt across the globe, there's something quite evocative about the concept of strange fragrant foreign spices arriving into London docks or of high adventure in the undiscovered orient. I do note they haven't decided to base a fragrance around my peoples' 'trade route' escapades in the Caribbean though. Can't think why.
Anyway, each of these fragrances is named after something or somewhere that the Empire traded with:
Halfeti - a Turkish village.
Cairo - The bustling Capital of Egypt (but think 1800s Egypt, not the petrol-smog modern world).
Agarbathi - Indian for incense sticks.
Oud De Nil - Night boat to Cairo! dooo dooooooo dooooooooooooooooo do do do do doooooooooooooo. Actually it's thematically during the day - you've got your oud on and you're sailing down the river having a cuppa on the way to raiding an Egyptian tomb. It's not stealing, don't worry.
Perfume notes
Halfeti is obviously so popular that Penhaligon's don't even feel the need to tell you the notes on their website. Fragrantica goes with:
Top - Cypress Leaf, Saffron, Cardamom, Artemisia (a bitter herb), Bergamot, Grapefruit.
Mid - Bulgarian Rose, Nutmeg, Jasmin
Base Notes - Agarwood (Oud), Leather, Cedar, Sandlewood, Amber, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Musk.
Halfeti leather sticks to the similar DNA but goes dark and amps up the leather, along with a defiant plum note.
Cairo, meanwhile is listed as having some similar notes. Again we have rose (this time as a top note), saffron, vanilla (this time in the middle), cypriol oil, labdanum. The base is sandalwood, cedar and patchouli.
Agarbathi, as an ingredients list, runs differently to these going with Palo Santo (a woody citrus) bergamot and pink pepper at the top, incense, milk, olibanum (frankincense) and Jasmin Sambac in the mid, and suede, balsam fir, sandal and vetiver in the base.
All four of these, following the openings, are spicy/incense based, and that's why I've grouped them (although they all operate very differently).
Oud Di Nil, meanwhile, is a different affair. The top notes are described as bergamot and grapefruit whilst, in the mids we have rose, jasmine, orange blossom and geranium. The bottom notes are, perhaps unsurprisingly, Agarwood (Oud), Guaiac Wood, Papyrus, Resins and Amber.
Phew, that was a lot of data. Let the smelling begin.
The Scents
Starting with Halfeti, which I suspect at least some of you will be familiar with, I definitely get a citrus opening - it's bitter and refreshing, and there's also a clear spice element coming through. I wouldn't exactly say I'm getting a strong cardamom, as I'm smelling Halfeti against the pods I'm putting in the butter chicken later and they're not matching up, but there's definitely a warmth there tying things together. It's a good start.
Following that, Halfeti actually becomes dry. It takes on a woody quality and the spices combine together to create an incense tone. In terms of the base notes, the thing that protrudes most to me is the leather, which seems to act as backdrop to the spices on top. Everything is well balanced and...my god does this thing project. I sprayed a small amount of it outside whilst having a quick walk in the cold weather, and I could swear I was getting looks from people even with that!
Turning to Halfeti Leather; you know that citrus top and dry woodsy note? You can stick it son, we're going with plums. Big juicy, leathery, non-sexual innuendo-y plums. This is potent. I'm doing the review today off the card as opposed to from my skin, as this thing ran amock last time! I actually find Halfeti to be reasonably dark, but whilst they definitely share similar DNA, this thing takes it to another level. The combination of the plum note and the spike in the leather base note overthrow the delicate balance of the original. It is a beast - it's like an old leather bound book, polished dark oak furniture, and potpourri all rolled in to one. The dried incense smell gets lost a little bit here and instead you end up with something that's a bit like a moist winter pudding. Hmm.
Switching up again, Cairo offers a totally different scenario. Whilst Halfeti and Halfeti leather apparently contain rose, I'm not getting much of one in either. This isn't a problem with Cairo. The rose opening on this thing is so big I physically saw them blooming in front of my eyes. It's thick, sweet, and jammy (apparently the rose has been macerated in woods/spices...I reckon some oud as well). In theory, this should be right up my street (I love rose) and yet I find myself struggling a bit. The problem is it's just so sweet on me. I suspect it's the vanilla, but this thing is giving me tooth ache just smelling it! As it settles down, it starts leaning into the incense again but, unlike Halfeti, this isn't dry. It's thick - I'm imagining being trapped in a temple with one of those gold burners hanging from the ceiling, red smoke piling out as I bathe in sugary rose water awaiting sacrifice to some half-man/half-bird god. Save me, Indy!
Escaping up the river, we have Oud de Nil, which is a wholly different affair. I had no idea when I first smelt it, but this is apparently a fragrance for the gals. Smelling it again now, I guess I can just about see that, but this is unisex for me, and if you're a lady, you've got to like your oud. This starts off distinctly medicinal. I'm not saying the citrus isn't there, but the opening to me is oud of the TCP variety. As it settles in it starts to become a little soapy and floral...but also dirty, whilst also still retaining that antiseptic quality. When I first tried it I wrote it off - "Nah not for me". And yet, like a man who has been put under some terrible Pharaoh's curse, I woke up the next day wanting to smell it again and walked, arms outstretched, towards the vial. There's just something about it that's quite addictive. I can't explain it. With Halfeti or Cairo I could imagine walking down the street and getting compliments. With this thing I think people would just be confused. Heck, I think I'm confused. This is a great fragrance, but I can totally understand why they've not continued selling it as it's so unique it's not going to shift product.
Finally, we round out the journey with a trip to India and Agarbathi (again, discontinued). This is another that's grown on me since I first tried it. The opening notes of pink pepper and citrus are present and correct. After that, we're back in incense town, but this time we're not as dry as Halfeti (and possibly a little more 'green'?) - think frankincense burning on sticks. I like this smell. The issue I have with it is only that it is slightly one note - you will, literally, smell like an incense stick. If that's something that appeals to you, then Agarbathi is a good shout.
The Price
The tight Yorkshireman looks at the price. He says "£178 for 100ml?!". He baulks.
A couple of things to note, however - firstly, these are cheaper than the £204 for 75ml of the 'Portraits' line ("oh great, thanks" I hear you say) but, secondly, these all perform. Your enemies will be able to smell you coming from a mile off if you're wearing any one of them. Make no mistake, they are all high quality, modern smelling, and a pleasure to wear (personal foibles aside).
Penhaligon's are a luxury brand, and the price reflects that. This being said, 100ml of any of these would last you for years. Should you blind buy any? Absolutely not. Should you try and sample them? Yes.
I think all of them are unisex (excepting maybe H. Leather because it's so dark), but I have to say I don't find any of them particularly 'feminine', which is interesting, really, as they do seem to do really well with both sexes. The powerful nature of them all would cause me to avoid wearing them in hot weather but you'd be fine any other time. I don't think any of them are suitable for ultra-formal situations but for anything else, sure (just make sure if you take it to the office that your co-workers don't mind the smell!).
Here's my personal dilemma. I like the original Halfeti - there's no doubt why it's popular - it's a fantastically balanced fragrance that smells high quality and has class to it. At the same time, however, my nose tells me I've smelt it before around town (is this because my local Penhaligon's pump it out?). That doesn't necessarily draw me in to buying it. Halfeti Leather, however, is far too dark for me and the massive leather note gives me a 'car sickness' feeling. Cairo, meanwhile, is hampered by its sweetness on my skin, whilst Oud De Nil is too unique to wear as a main scent. That feeling also applies to Agarbathi.
Looking to the horizon, I see the silhouette of another Halfeti - Halfeti Cedar - promising boozy notes over the original's DNA. This could be perfect! Or it would be if I could sample the damn thing! I've been in contact with Penhaligon's today, but it doesn't look like I'm going to have any joy on that front until we're out of lockdown. If I do get my hands on it, I'll update accordingly.
In Closing
Hope this review is of interest to people! If you'd like me to review any other scents I have:
Penhaligon's: Sartorial, Orange Blossom, Castile, Luna, Changing Constance, Terrible Teddy, Opus 1870, Douro Eau de Portugal
Jo Malone: Blackberry and Bay
Paco Rabanne: Pure XS
Beauty Pie: Brazilian Lime, Fig Leaves and Tea
Viktor and Rolf: Spice Bomb
Swiss Arabian: Shaghaf Oud
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Possets GC and Yule review

There’s a 21% off sale going on currently, so I thought I’d share some quick thoughts on my Possets collection!
Permanent Collection
Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal - Bulgarian zdravetz combined with ylang ylang and a smoothing of rare and perfect red musk. A strong suggestion of patchouli of the finest aged variety, finished off with a kiss of oude infused lips, and a dollop of real Tahitian vanilla bean aged infusion - yum. This is unlike anything I’ve ever smelled before. I think this primarily vanilla (sort of creamy) with silky musk and ylang ylang and a hint of sweet cozy patch. I can’t really pick up the oud. This perfume is heart-achingly beautiful and unique.
Heka - gourd accord(!) and slides into a fine brew of lavender, oakmoss, and thyme which are twined around a resinous ambery heart - this is the only pumpkin + lavender I’ve ever liked. Sort of bread-y pumpkin with a sachet of herbs next to it. Sweet but not nauseating.
Howl - Black, red and amber musks wrestle furiously with sandalwood and opium tar resin - the musks in this kinda make me think of NAVA, so if you’re a NAVA fan you may be into this. It’s very “feral” and almost leathery but really wearable.
Orphans *not currently available on site
Arabian Dance - Clove, coffee, a drop of mild oude, and very light smoke - I’ve been on a coffee scent kick lately and this totally misses the mark. It smells like a vaguely (and I mean quite vaguely) coffee-scented wet wipe, then meh oud. I’ve seen reviews saying this is too spicy so I’m gonna hold on to it a bit longer in case it develops anything like that.
Yules *available on site
Thorns and All - strong modern tea rose and darkest black pepper. Golden amber joins in to try to smooth things out but just ends up making the mix that much hotter - I’m just getting all rose. It reminds me of BPAL’s rose, which I find super aggressive and way too vibrant. No pepper that I can smell, which is a bummer because I love pepper! It fades to a nice amber though, but it’s a bit soapy. I’m missing the thorns.
Moonlight Sonata - Soft red raspberry and heavy sugar, topped off with an extra dusting of clove, a heart of white musk to ground it, and a fluff of almond to start it all on a charmingly melancholy note - in the bottle, TWIZZLERS. Then the clove and almond make an appearance toning down the candylike raspberry. I think this is actually really beautiful, but you’d have to be pretty into raspberries to like this, I think. It’s sort of gourmand but...not?
Woman - Civet, vetiver, aged patchouli - there is some serious stank in here. I SWEAR I smell jasmine or some white floral in this, but I don’t quite know what civet smells like so maybe it’s that? It’s really forward and “dirty”, but also has an interesting coffee-like whiff in there. I don’t hate it at all. It’s on the verge of being “too much” which I’m kind of into. The woman this is referring to is definitely a werewolf.
Repose - The sweet smell of freshly baked cookies, a pot of peach marmalade, and the swirl of frankincense just to stick it all together. Just made lovelier by a dusting of Eastern spice powder - this scent broke my trust. The cookies aren’t freshly baked, they came from a dusty packet hidden on the bottom shelf at the store. There’s an odd sweet-but-stale note overpowering everything and the spice powder is doing more harm than good here. The peach marmalade peeps out a bit more as it dries down and it’s about the only thing I like about this perfume, it’s not too sickly sweet like peach can be.
Madame X3 - bees-waxy vanilla for which the Madame is so famous yet builds on it with dry vanilla and a woody vanilla to give it the sophistication it needs and to keep it from being too heavy. The smallest hint of yuzu balances the waxy vanilla lest it becomes too cloying. The whole thing is polished with a drop of Haitian vetiver - I have a love-hate relationship with this scent. Sometimes, the waxy vanilla really works for me and smells very clean and elegant, other times it comes off totally nauseating. I believe this depends on my cycle so I’m just going to judge it based on the good days. It reminds me of a lady in a smart black hat eating a silky citrus-vanilla whip and she has no student debt.
Clara’s Party - Black musk, Arabian frankincense,3 golden ambers, very spicy gingerbread, and a goodly shot of black tea - I LOVE this! Possets’ tea note is so, so pretty. This is a snap of gingerbread dunked in gorgeous, tannic black tea. I don’t think I pick up on the ambers but the musk is there harmonizing with the tea nicely.
Emine - The most beautiful of frankincense, the most subtle and luxurious of white oudes, the sweetest of myrrh (a very special type of golden myrrh), a light golden patchouli, and a drop of styrax - this is stereotypically “perfumey” but it reminds me of my mom so I really like it. Clean, resinous, sweet, but it has a sharp edge to it.
Love - Dragons' Blood, skin musk, golden musk, 2 Oriental ambers, and a silk extract - this has a similar clean waxiness that Madame X3 has. It’s a nice my-skin-but-better scent, but a tiny bit too sweet for me.
Balthazar - the best frankincense we have ever had the pleasure of working with, along with the strange and compelling back up of myrrh. The two resins are knit together with a 100% natural golden amber blend which is gorgeous - this is SO TART. I guess I don’t know as much about resins as I thought I did because this quite unexpectedly smells like a sour lemon or maybe Pine-Sol. It almost makes my eyes water.
Ornament - rose and sugar cookies - I’m not sure I get along with Possets’ rose but this scent is pretty. The rose is juicy, teetering on the edge of being too in-your-face but the cookie note is just wonderful. It smells like the kind made with spoon-sized dollops of dough and they come out so soft and melt in your mouth.
Moonbux - The true arabica cuppa mocha right under your nose, freshly ground coffee scenting the backdrop, you have added a large amount of cream to the blend, a shot of vanilla, and you have the perfect treat for a cold day - this is what I’m looking for when it comes to coffee! Bitter, roasted beans with sweet fixings. A really good coffee shop scent but I wish the robustness of the coffee was amped up a little more IMO. Sadly doesn’t last as long as I’d like.
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My collection - still learning what I like (33F)

The Shelf
My collection is half old, fresh fruity aquatics from the early 2010s when I started buying fragrance, and half things I've bought during quarantine when I remembered that I like fragrance.
MMM Soul of the Forest - My current favorite. A true unisex forest scent (I sampled *a lot* - most are way too masc), unfortunately discontinued.
Lalique Encre Noire - Opening is beautifully smoky, middle is woody and almost fruity(??), and unfortunately the drydown is a very dated, masculine vetiver - it smells exactly like my grandfather (wonder if this is what he wore). Will prob swap.
Rochas Absolu - an ambetolu bomb. Smells dated to me, or I'm not mature enough. Will prob swap.
Kenzo L'eau par Kenzo - I've had this forever (8+ years?). Some days I like it, some I hate it. A strange, airy/watery thing. Might swap.
Ineke Field Notes from Paris - LOVE. Opening is a bit cleaner-y fresh, but the drydown smells like dusty books, tonka, and light tobacco. A museum in a bottle. Ugh, so good. I also have the sampler box and unfortunately a lot of her scents go really pissy on me, but Balmy Days and Sundays is another winner and I would buy a full size of if it wasn't so damn expensive.
Elizabeth Arden Green Teas - I don't like the original (too sour), but the two flankers here (pear + bamboo) are pleasant dumdum body sprays.
Versace Versense - A freshie citrus that actually lasts. Haven't had a chance to wear it in warm weather yet; I'm sure it'll shine in the summertime. A cheapie win.
MAC Turquatic - A freshie aquatic, had since 2013. Beautifully unisex, still available, and remarkably good quality for the price.
D&G Light Blue - Everyone knows it. This particular bottle is so old the sprayer is corroding. Only a drop left... Don't think I'll repurchase, but I refuse to use the last of it. I enjoy sniffing it now and again.
Marc Jacobs Daisy - Another old bottle. A fruity floral I used to wear to the office when I was feeling femme.
H&M Sunray + Pear - former smells like beachy, sweet skin, latter smells like the fruity body sprays of my childhood. Love em both, stupid cheap, and the bottles couldn't be prettier. I want the garden one, but I can't find it anywhere.
Chloe Nomade mini - On the fence about it. Pleasant Lychee top note. Will reevaluate in summer.
Demeters - Giant Sequoia (eh), New Zealand (pretty good), Dirt rollerball (bought to layer), Thunderstorm and Firefly (need full bottles!). I've had these forever, Firefly is possibly my favorite scent of all time. Demeter understands the importance of dirt, and I love them for that.
Alkemia box o' samples - I wanted to support an indie perfumer but... I didn't like any of the 18 samples I got.
Nest minis - Love Indigo and Citrine for when I want something sweet, Paradise I'm saving for the summer, and the Sandalwood one I'm on the fence about. Have the mini rollerballs of Verde and Wisteria Blue, both winners. Gave my other minis away. Have a large rollerball of Amazon Lily, which is straight up sweet tarts and sex, love it and considering a full bottle.
Clean Mini rollerballs - Warm Cotton smells like laundry (not for me), Air is fresh and nice at first, then goes pissy, and Skin is a surprisingly nice musk.
Good Chemistry Brainiac rollerball - Nearly gone, had to order a full size bottle off ebay since they appear to be discontinuing it. Unisex and peppery fresh with a vanilla drydown. Can't go wrong.
DKNY Be Delicious + BDFB double-ended rollerball - Old and corroded, but it's nostalgic so I can't bear to toss it. Its the kind of fruity juvenile nonsense I secretly enjoy.
My wishlist - Hermes Eau Des Merveilles and basically the entire Jardin line. I got samples and damn, they're all so good. I also need Dusita Issara. Got a sample of it and I'm addicted (but the price...)
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Here’s all the Byredo fragrances I’ve sampled/ bought decants of in the past month and my thoughts on them.

So I’ve been on a major decant shopping spree recently and have come across some real winners, and some not so much. I started to get into the house of Byredo, added my first Frederic Malle’s, and expanded my Aqua Allegoria lineup.
All of these were purchased either from Surrender to Chance, The Perfumed Court, Fragrance Marketplace on FB.
Byredo:
Bal d’Afrique - nice, well rounded citrus with a hint of a white floral on opening. Vetiver starts to appear in the dry down. This is a happy scent for me. It’s not reinventing the wheel by any means, but I can appreciate what it’s construction and blend. Longevity is average, 4-6 hrs maybe. I don’t think I would buy a full bottle but I’d definitely be interested in a partial.
Bibliotheque - I am really intrigued by this one. It’s slightly sweet and leathery. I can’t say that I have anything that even remotely resembles this fragrance, and I appreciate that about it. Fragrantica says that the top notes are peach and plum. I don’t smell that. What I do smell is very synthetic almost like lip smackers chapstick from the 90’s. Not that I’m knocking it, just I don’t get anything remotely realistic out of this. Not an overpowering scent, maybe 4-5 hrs longevity on me. Would not buy though.
Black Saffron - Realistic Leather and a slight tart fruit undertone upon first spray. This has to be one of my favorites from the lineup. The leather note shines in this and feels much more realistic than in other fragrances with the same note. This is a fragrance that brings to a mind hot, and arid landscape. Longevity is a bit better on this one; 5-8 hours. Would probably buy.
Blanche - this fragrance is the epitome of clean scents. Think of any cotton fragrance or clean sheets candle from bath and body works and you get the idea. Kind of has a windex smell to it. It’s not in any way a bad fragrance, it’s just not my thing. It is just as you’d expect it to be, and with the outside of the box thinking from Byredo, I was a touch disappointed with that. I guess I was hoping for a note out of left field or something. Longevity is average 4-6 hrs. Would not buy.
Gypsy Water - smells strongly of lemon water, with a slight hint of B.O. I think that may be a bit of the juniper coming through on this. Also interestingly enough, reminds me of fruity pebbles a bit on first spray. So much so, I went out and bought a box for nostalgias sake. Don’t get me wrong with the description, I actually very much like this fragrance. It’s an interesting take on citrus. It’s a sunny fragrance that reminds me of being outdoors and eating lemon Italian ice. Longevity is not good on this as is common with a citrus dominated fragrance. Lower end of 4-6 hrs. Would maybe buy a partial of this.
Mister Marvelous - the notes in this perfume should be something really nice but it comes across as average male fragrance to me. Unoriginal I guess. I can say I do like the neroli on the opening. The other notes carrying the weight here are the lavender which is highly muted, and the citrus. This is a sterile barbershop type note which I’m not opposed to. That being said, this fades out QUICKLY! It is a shame to see something that had the building blocks to be good, be forgettable and weak. Longevity, maybe 2-3 hours. Would not buy.
Mojave Ghost - opening, straight pear note. This is the sapodilla that is actually really pretty and I appreciate the uniqueness of this ingredient. The magnolia starts to shine through about 10-20 minutes in. There is a definite soap note to this. Not a clean scent, but a bit soapy. This is not strong by any means and I’m not sure if anyone other than the wearer would notice it. Nothing really offensive or divisive about this fragrance, but that also means it’s kind of boring. Longevity, maybe 4 hours. Will wear the decant I have, but would not buy.
Tobacco Mandarine - this is powerful obviously because it’s an extrait, but it is very linear. Tobacco is at the heart snd the star here. Not tobacco like in tobacco vanille or Herod, this is a sharper, higher pitched note I guess I’d say. Notes say that there is frankincense, but if it is there, it is very muted and I can’t detect it. There is nothing inherently wrong with this fragrance, but for the price, I want more complexity with what I’m getting. If I wanted a dual note fragrance, I’d buy a jo malone for half the price. Longevity 5-8hrs. Would not buy.
Other fragrances that I picked up that I will be reviewing:
Guerlain Pera Granita Coconut fizz Teazzura Spiriteuse Double Vanille
Gucci last day of summer (the alchemists garden)
Balenciaga Florabotanica
Serge Leutens Bapteme du feu Chergui Tubereuse Criminelle
Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Music for awhile
Le Labo santal 33
Louis Vuitton L’Immense
Initio Atomic Rose
Sisley Soir d’Orient
Nishane Ani
Xerjoff Italica Naxos
PdM Herod
Zoologist Bat new reformulation
submitted by 2leafClover667788 to fragrance [link] [comments]

My 2020 Purchases, 55 fragrances, with mini reviews, best in class and top lists. WARNING: Very long post.

55 fragrances, a little more than one a week. Ranging from bargain bin to seriously overpriced niche.
Some real gems and a few duds. Links to Fragrantica for each fragrance. Here goes:
27 87 - Genetic Bliss: Similar to Eccentric Molecules, but more refined, great depth and great longevity. Perfect for layering. A worthy purchase.
Abel - Cobalt Amber: A rather boring, middle of the road amber. Blind bought. Similar in style to MFK - Grand Soir, but lacks the complexity.
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Pura(x2): An incredible citrus with aldehydes, making it etheral and eternally lasting. A must have. Perfectly unisex. Rivals Mancera´s Lemon Line for longest lasting summer scent.
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Assoluta: Rumours of discontinuation. Very similar to Colonia but amped up. A better purchase than the original.
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Sandalo: A beautiful, light and dry sandal wood with citrus. Good longevity. Highly recommended.
Aether - Hypær: The company that tries hard to be different for the sake of being different. I do admire their blatant embrace of Aroma Chemicals. This one is their best offering.
Aramis - Aramis: A classic, still good and long lasting in its current formulation. A must have in any collection. Was the first fragrance I ever bought for my own money. Nostalgic value for me is through the roof.
Armaf - Club de Nuit Milestone: A beautiful floral take on MI or Individuelle. On its own, it stands out as a great bargain purchase. Inoffensive, easy to wear and very versatile. As with most Armafs, it strikes a great balance, between quality and price.
Art de Parfum - Gin & Tonic: A beautiful juniper. one of, if not the best juniper accord I have come across. If juniper is a favourite of yours, you owe it to yourself to sample this one.
Art de Parfum - Sea Foam: A beautiful aquatic with a fig element. among the more interesting aquatics I have come across recently.
Comme de Garcons - Blue Encens: A pretty, light and easy to wear incense, for people who do not want the churcy kind of incense. A blueish twist moves it towards modern male perfumery. It is good, but I will not get it again.
Comme de Garcons - Radish Vetiver: This one I regret. I cannot get past the metallic radish, in the incredibly persistent opening. It last for hours. After it moves into the late middle and early dry down, it reveals a fantastic multifacetted vetiver, that I wish they had embraced but itself, without the radish.
Comme de Garcons - Series 4 Cologne Vettiveru: An old school, slightly dirty middle of the road vetiver. Not really a standout among vetiver centric scents, but if you can find it cheap, like I did, it is perfectly wearable.
Creed - Asian Green Tea: An interesting Creed! Almost aquatic. Tea is not the main player here. It is distinctly floral and amber on my skin. I like it a lot.
Creed - Aventus: Still not worth the price. Doesn´t matter if it´s smoky or fruity. Its good, sure, but costs about 50% too much. Floris - 1976 outshines Aventus on any given day.
Etat Libre D´Orange - Cologne: A beautiful classic italian style cologne. Can be found fairly cheap. Is a great representation of the cologne style. Think Acqua di Parma. Recommended.
Extrait d´Atelier - Maitre Ceramiste: One of my favorite brands, I have all of their offerings. THey alway have something interesting, in this case, a concrete or ceramic accord that is both unique interesting and beautiful. I strongly recommed seeking these Extrait d´Atelier offerings out.
Floris - Neroli Voyage: The best aquatic since the 90´s period. Beautiful very long lasting neroli, that sweeps you up and carries you on clouds of heavenly scented bliss for 8+ hours. A MUST HAVE!
Floris - Cefiro: A strikingly beautiful woody aromatic, with a playful Jasmine that intertwines with beautiful sandalwood. A fresh sweet citric opening rounds of, what may be the best all round offering from Floris. Some men might find the jasmine a little too dominant, but I adore it. On a woman this would be sexy sophistication, a touch of clas and playfulness, all rolled into one.
Floris - Chypress: As with all offerings from Floris, this is pure quality, but it doesnt shine as bright as Cefiro. I like it and I will enjoy wearing it, but I wont be purchasing it again. A Chypre twist with ylang ylang making it white floral forward. Brings back memories of classy traditional perfumery geared towards women.
Francesca Bianchi - Cuir Soyeux (Limited Edition). No longer available: For those familiar with Francesca´s offerings, this one needs no introdcution. She creates multifaceted, heavy, sexual, naughty and nasty (all in a good way)perfumes that lasts a life time. This is her take on leather. I am not big on leather scents but this one is a stunner. Maybe because the leather accord only play a prominent supporting role instead of being the center accord.
Gallivant - London: Gallivant is fast becoming a favorite house of mine, but so far this is the only bottle I have gotten. Cucumber and rose are at the forefront with a leather accord supporting throughout. The cucumber accord is beatiful. Worth the price for that alone. Its a polarising scent profile i would say, so I recommend sampling (which you always should)
Gamine - Oceanic Encre: This one was a suprise. An aquatic with a dominant algae accord. Typical Neroli opening leads to algae and coconut. It reminds of a warm summers day on a northern european beach. It is way too expensive for what it is, and the longevity could be better. That being said, it is a fairly unique aquatic.
Guerlain - Terracotta: a classic, purchased for my wife. It is sophisticated, sexy summer in a bottle. God I love this stuff. If you can find a vintage, get it immdediately.
Histoire de Parfums - 1740 Marquis de Sade: HdP is another one of my favourite houses. They never disappoint. A beautiful immortelle carries the scent throughout its life span. Artemisia provides an interesting if fleeting opening. Worth a bottle for reference.
Histoire de Parfums - 1899 Hemmingway: Unlike 1740, this one is a love for me. A beautiful juniper, cinnamon and amber concoction. Never heavy and never fleeting. persistent and enveloping. Another must have in my opinion.
Jardins d´Ecrivains - Ajar: A beautiful fantasy orchid. Sweet and hypnotising. a scent for when you cozy up with a blanket and want to be selfindulgent.
Jeanne en Provence - Acqua: A bargain bin aquatic that punches well above its weight. Traditional 90´s style aquatic with good longevity. An archetypical dumb reach. For anyone on a budget wanting an exptremely cheap aquatic, it doesnt get better than this.
Kelsey Berwin - Dinar: Blind buy. Woody and musky and waaaaaay too sweet. Not my cup of tea. Smells cheap.
Lalique - Encre Noire Sport: Of all the EN offerings this is my favorite. Lalique´s offerings are never bad and never dull. The vetiver in this line is an aquired taste. If you are familiar with Northern European pine forests, it smells like they do, on days you dont want to spend time in said forest. The sport version takes some steps to remove it from that association, making me appreciate the vetiver on offering that much more.
Le Couvent Maison de Parfum - Aqua Nymphae: Jean-Claude Ellena does Le Jardin de Monsieur Li Hermès once again, but in a slightly different way. Its very good and cheap.
Le Couvent Maison de Parfum - Aqua minimes: Jean-Claude Ellena does calssic cologne and does it well. Its very good and cheap.
Le Couvent Maison de Parfum - Aqua Solis: Jean-Claude Ellena does Un Jardin En Mediterranee once again, but in a slightly different way. Its very good and cheap.
Le Liquides Imaginaires - Phantasma: A lovely yusu and rice on a bed of green tea combination that gives a distinct Japanese feel to this frangrance. It is very, very good, but you have to really like these accords to justify the price.
L´Orchestre Parfum - Piano Santal: A luscious, deep and enthralling sandalwood frangrance on a bed of milk and cashmere wool, that rivals the opposition. Some has compared this to Santal 33, but I find this to be a more realistic interpretation of sandalwood.
L´Orchestre Parfum - Incens Asakusa: Incense and Iris. Unique. May just be one of teh best incense accords I have come across.
L´Orchestre Parfum - The Darbouka: Spicy immortelle. The weakest of the three I got from this house. I will not buy it again. That being said, L´Orchestre Parfum is a young house that is well worth checking out. Reasonably priced, very high quality fragrances.
Le Bains Guerbois - 2015 LE PHÉNIX: Woody, dry incense. I find it hard to classify this and objectively describe it. Definitely not a love. Still trying to figure out if I like it. Only got a decant as its rather pricey. right now, I will not invest in a full bottle.
Mercedes Benz - Infinitely Spicy: Found it in TK Maxx for pennies. It´s fine but the price reflects what you are getting.
Mercedes Benz - Addictive Oriental: Found it in TK Maxx for pennies. Much better than IS. Luckily the cashmere wood is not too dominant. I think this makes a good purchase for those on a budget.
Nicolai Parfumeur Createur - New York Intense: If you are curious about high class fougeres, but have less than 100 quid to spend, this is the one to get. If you have more, Rogue Perfumery´s offerings outshines NYI in every aspect.
Perfume Sucks - Black: I am not an oud conniseur in any way, however, this one gets it right. Oud plays a part in an orchestra of accomplished players. think BR540 (without the sweetness) with oud, patchouli and incense, without any of the accords, being dominant.
Rasasi - Oudh al Misk: Summer on a budget. It is fine, for the price its even good. I wont be wearing it much, but was curious about the hype. Again, if you are strapped for cash, this makes a brilliant summer purchase.
Rituals - Eau de Tsuru: Rituals tried their hand at a BR540 alternative, and does a pretty good job. Only got the travel size for the sake of keeping my Rituals collection complete. It is likable but nothing unique.
Rituals - Nuit d´Azar: This is the real star from Rituals. Hands down the best vetiver I have smelled this year. Long lasting, complex and utterly divine.
Rogue Perfumery - Fougere L´Aube: A magical perfume wonder. A scent adventure that takes you on an everlasting journey. If you can only afford one fragrance and you want that to be a fougere, this is the one to get. Ignore Fragrantica and its comparisons. The closest scent to this one is Mousse Illuminee. Fougere L´Aube is lighter, slightly more playful and etherical. Easier to wear, and easier on the nose for those who weren´t around to smell fougeres as they used to be.
Rogue Perfumery - Mousse Illuminee: An absolutel stunner of a fragrance. every bit as good as Fougere L´Aube, bt a little more classic fougere. For some harder to wear or less flexible. The dimensions to the moss in this fragrance are in my experience unrivalled in modern perfumery, except for Rogue´s other oakmoss offerings.
Roos & Roos - Sympathy for the Sun: Salty powdered flowers. Not my cup of tea. Gave it to the missus.
Scent of Finland - Kaltio: Aldehydic aquatic. Perfectly unisex or rather asexual. A scent for those that doesnt want to smell like perfume. Being Scandinavian, I was interested in their offerings. Will not geti it again.
Tabac - Original EDT: My fathers scent of choice for many years. Bought to rekindle my memories from childhood. I made the imstake of getting the EDT instead of the after shave. The EDT is not a boosted version of the AS but rahter has added aldehydes and florals, which makes too great a change to the original scent in my opinion.
Une Nuit Nomade - Memory Hotel: A pretty, safe chypre inspired fragrance, that wont rock your world or throw you off the ship. They do conveniently sized 25ml bottles for long term testing. Not a hit with me.
Une Nuit Nomade - Bohemian Soul: A somewhat better offering, but once again, I find it a little uninspired and safe. No attempt at making it unique and no resemblance of a DNA accord in their line.
Zara - Montsouris: BR540 clone attempt. Somewhat successful. It is ok, only.
Zara - Place Dauphine: Salty ambergris in the style of Zara (so too sweet), on a very tight budget. It is passable, but I wont be using out except for at home or as a room fragrance.

I know how you all love your top lists, so here we go, based on my purchases and not including samples and testers. The top 5´s for 2020, are not in any particular order.

Top 5 Best purchases:
Rogue Perfumery - Fougere L´Aube
Rogue Perfumery - Mousse Illumiere
Rituals - Nuit d´Azar
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Assoluta
Francesca Bianchi - Cuir Soyeux

Top 5 Worst purchases:
Une Nuit Nomade - Memory Hotel
Kelsey Berwin - Dinar
Comme de Garcons - Radish Vetiver
Aether - Hyper
Abel - Cobalt Amber

Top 5 value for money purchases:
Aramis - Aramis
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Pura
Rogue Perfumery - Fougere L´Aube
Rogue Perfumery - Mousse Illumiere
Rituals - Nuit d´Azar

Top 5 overpriced purchases:
Creed - Aventus
Comme de Garcons - Radish Vetiver
Le Liquides Imaginaires - Phantasma
Abel - Cobalt Amber
Une Nuit Nomade - Bohemian Soul

Top 5 i will definitely purchase again:
Rogue Perfumery - Fougere L´Aube
Rogue Perfumery - Mousse Illumiere
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Pura
Nicolai Parfumeur Createur - New York Intense
Floris - Neroli Voyage

Top 5 best projecters:
Nicolai Parfumeur Createur - New York Intense
Rituals - Nuit d´Azar
Francesca Bianchi - Cuir Soyeux
Rogue Perfumery - Fougere L´Aube
Rogue Perfumery - Mousse Illumiere

Top 5 best longevity:
Francesca Bianchi - Cuir Soyeux
Rogue Perfumery - Fougere L´Aube
Rogue Perfumery - Mousse Illumiere
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Pura
Rituals - Nuit d´Azar

Best Citrus: Acqua di Parma - Colonia Assoluta
Best Oriental: L´Orchestre Parfum - The Darbouka
Best Classic: Nicolai Parfumeur Createur - New York Intense
Best Leather: Francesca Bianchi - Cuir Soyeux
Best Classic: Nicolai Parfumeur Createur - New York Intense
Best Leather: Francesca Bianchi - Cuir Soyeux
Best Aquatic: Floris - Neroli Voyage
Best Old School (Chypre/Fougere): Rogue Perfumery - Fougere L´Aube
Best House: Rogue Perfumery
Best Perfumer: Manuel Cross
Best Cheap scent (less than 50 quid) of the year 2020 goes to: Rituals - Nuit d´Azar
Best scent of the year 2020: Floris - Neroli Voyage. An unheralded aquatic, that strikes the right balance between, freshness, depth, clarity and longevity. They have accomplised bringing the qualities of aquatics from a bygone era into our modern perfumery.

Finally some samples on their way, to determine the first purchases of 2021:
Art de Parfum - Signature Wild
Art de Parfum - Excentrique Moi
Centauri - Proxima
Francesca Bianchi - Sticky Fingers
Francesca Bianchi - Tyger Tyger
Hiram Green - Slowdive
Hiram Green - Vivacious
Imaginary Authors - MEMOIRS OF A TRESPASSER
Marlou - Poudrextase
OLYMPIC ORCHIDS - Night Flyer – The Original
OLYMPIC ORCHIDS - Woodcut
Orto Parisi - Bergamask
Orto Parisi - Megamare
Rogue Perfumery - Bon Monsieur
Rogue Perfumery - Ishtar
Rogue Perfumery - Jasmin Antique
Svensk Parfym - Prakt
Svensk Parfym - Virke

For a full list of my collection, here is the link to my Fragrantica profile: Yzerman76
I will be happy to answer any questions you may have on any of the above, except engage into discussions about, for or against Aventus. I have my opinion, you have yours. Let´s leave it at that.
If anyone wants a more in depth review of any of the fragrances, let me know.
Thank you for taking the time to read through this.
submitted by yzerman76 to fragrance [link] [comments]

[US][Sell/swap][Perfume/Body] Samples decants full Sizes from so many houses~ Alkemia, Arcana, Astrid, BPAL, Solstice, Possets, D&F, Cocoapink, Sixteen92, Nui Cobalt, Wicked Good and more!

Updated as of Monday morning- added some more PULP 4mls and Olympic Orchids sample sprays. Welcome back! 😉 You know the drill. Shipping is $4.50 but I'm offering free shipping on a few bundle deals. Also $35+ ships free. New this week are some Nui Cobalt bottles, PULP Fragrance, Sixteen92 layering notes along with Cocoapink linen spray decant leftover bottles.
!~Happy to decant from most bottles in 1 or 2ml! I might be willing so sell bottles I'm decanting from, so just ask if you're interested in Queen Crossbones or whatever and we'll come up with a fair price. ×# after an item denotes the amount of decants left in the bottle!
Some labels might be oil stained. Happy to take pics if you want. I'm always down for a swap, so send your lists my way! I'm constantly updating so check back often, and don't be afraid to ask any questions/ask if I have something not listed, cheers!
Alkemia
Andromeda's Curse samples $2
Arcana 1ml decants $4.5
Astrid samples/decants decants $3.5
Bath Sabbath Take all and your order ships free!
Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab/Trading Post has moved HERE!
Cocoa Pink 2.5ml oils $5
Linen Spray Decanting leftovers!
CP Other New, only sniffed.
Death and Floral
5ml Rollerballs
Deconstructing Eden
Firebird $2
Hexennacht samples/decants $2
Immortal Perfumes
MX Perfume
Nui Cobalt Samples $3
Bottles
Olympic Orchids sample sprays $5
Blackbird: Himalayan blackberry fruit, dry grass and leaves, elemi, cedar wood and resin, woody-amber accord, fir balsam absolute, musk.
PULP Fragrance samples $3
4ml Rollerballs $13
Redwood Alchemy $3
Siren Song Elixirs
Solstice Scents 1ml samples $3
EDP samples $6 (PBM, only sprayed 1 or 2 times)
5ml Rollerballs
Strange South samples/decants $3
Sucreabeille
Twinkle Apothecary Take both for $18
Wicked Good 10ml oil rollerballs $14
Other
submitted by maybe-drunk to IndieExchange [link] [comments]

Women’s perfume reviews (from a novice)

Philosykos by Diptyque
The description says it smells like the essence of a fig tree from ground to fruit. I get mostly Creamy vanilla green leaves. It doesn’t have great silliage or lasting power but it smells really good. Springtime comfort. 9/10
Top notes are Fig Leaf and Fig; middle notes are Green Notes and Coconut; base notes are Fig Tree, Woody Notes and Cedar
Premiere Figuier By L’Artisan
Also a fig based perfume. This one feels more unisex to me than Philosykos. Definitely stronger. It has a foggy, green, clean soap feeling. Springtime rainy day. 7/10
Top notes are Fig Leaf and Asafoetida; middle notes are Fig, Sandalwood and Almond Milk; base notes are Coconut, Sandalwood, Dried Fruits and Lime
Lost Cherry by Tom Ford
Cherries, vanilla and booze. Reminds me of a ludens cough drop. I love this perfume. It lasts all day and just makes me so happy. 10/10
Top notes are Sour Cherry, Bitter Almond and Liquor; middle notes are Sour Cherry, Plum, Turkish Rose and Jasmine Sambac; base notes are Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Peru Balsam, Benzoin, Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Cedar, Cloves, Vetiver and Patchouli
Eau Duelle by Diptyque
Vanilla, incense, dryness. I like this one for winter days. I don’t love it but I do like it. It reminds me of Burberry Brit. Brit is creamier. I give this 6/10
Cardamom, Asian cyprus, elemi, juniper, saffron, calamus, black tea, black African olibanum, amber, Firnat Vanilla, Bourbon Vanilla, white musk
Gourmand Coquin by Guerlain
Everything wonderful that a perfume could be is in this bottle. Chocolate, vanilla, booze, incense. It smells so expensive (and it is - I got a decant or 3). Comforting winter scent. Lasts all day. 10/10
Top notes: black pepper. Heart notes: rose, smoky tea. Base notes: rum, chocolate
French Kiss by Guerlain
Roses and raspberries and old ladies. I just kinda hate it. I don’t know what note exactly is so prominent, I think it’s the rose. Just bad to me. 2/10 bc it still smells high quality
Top notes are Raspberry and Litchi; middle notes are Violet and Rose; base notes are Heliotrope, Vanilla, Orris Root and White Musk
Angelique Noire by Guerlain
Sweet. Kinda like a grown up woman’s version of cotton candy but a little more blue than pink. I like it but I wouldn’t buy a full size 6/10
Top notes are Angelica, Pear and Pink Pepper; middle notes are Jasmine and Caraway; base notes are Vanilla, Angelica and Cedar
Dzing by L’Artisan
Oh god this was bad. Light brown hay and caramel that dries down to a mostly clean pig stall at the fair with some caramel near by. 2/10 for being interesting but I cannot wear this.
Notes: tonka beans, balsam, saffran and ginger
Fou D’Absinthe by L’Artisan
Smells like an old man in the forest on a hazy night. 1/10
Top notes are Wormwood, Angelica and Black Currant; middle notes are Star Anise, Nutmeg, Cloves, Ginger, Pepper and Patchouli; base notes are Pine Tree Needles, Balsam Fir and Incense
Tea for Two by L’Artisan
Spicy chai tea. Not a heavy type of spicy. If spring time had a spicy scent this would be it 6/10
Top notes are Tea, Star Anise and Bergamot; middle notes are Cinnamon, Spices, Ginger and Gingerbread; base notes are Tobacco, Honey, Leather and Vanilla
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A bevy of brief Alkemia reviews!

I recently got through testing 25 (!) samples + bottles of Alkemia scents, and thought I'd share my notes from trying all of them out. I find the big review posts here and on other forums so so helpful for figuring out what might work for me from a new house, so why not share the love! In general I gravitate towards sweet florals and vanilla/honey-based gourmand scents, though I'm really open to most things! I don't categorically dislike many notes, but I have lotsa trouble with ouds, and usually don't love cinnamon or carnation when they're major players.
Overall impressions:
Anyway! I'll post these notes in alphabetical order for my sanity. My standout faves were Smoke and Mirrors, Silken Tent, La Belle Epoque, and Ghost Fire.
Book of Twilight (Cashmeran, Honey, Cedar, Incense, Saffron, Anise, Violet leaf, Vetivert, Applewood, Spiced bourbon, Coriander)
Not playing too nice with my skin chemistry; I get mostly anise the whole time. Deepens a bit while it dries, but I am not a fan of anise/licorice and so this is a pass from me.
Calliope (A beguiling divertissement of piquant clementine, orange blossoms, white orchid, sugared currants, tonka, and vanilla musk whirled with flirtatious teases of billowy cotton candy floss and kisses of saltwater taffy.)
I get citrus and berry and a sugar note (also in Foxfire) that smells a little chemical-y to me. This is a fizzy one, and if you like Foxfire and are looking for a version that's more for day/summery, this might work nicely for you!
Elixir of Aphrodite (A love spell of Persian apricots dipped in orange blossom honey swirling with a sensual enchantment of peach and plum blossoms, mimosa, white star jasmine, ambrette, guiac wood, and vanilla musk.)
A love spell indeed! This is such a realistic sparkly peach-and-apricot scent for me, and it's beautiful and very 'juicy' smelling, like nectar. It dries down to a complex, well-blended, huffing-my-arm-every-five-minutes joy of a summer fragrance.
Enchanted Plumcake (A wintery magic of crystalized plums and pears, ripe figs, citron peel, frosted vanilla musk, candied rose petals, lavender syrup, and brandied fruitcake.)
Hrm, it seems that I am not really picking up what the gourmands are putting down! This smells really similar to The Honored Ghosts to me, even though the notes are a bit different. I'm not getting much cake, or maybe my skin chemistry just doesn't work with the cake note Alkemia uses.
Enchantress (An intoxication of amaretto liqueur spiked with cinnamon and citrus peel, star jasmine, accord of Cochleanthes amazonica orchid, mandorla amara, Bourbon vanilla caramels, guaiac wood, sweet vetiver root, and sexy botanical pheromones.)
Boozy! This is mainly amaretto when wet. The cinnamon comes up when it dries until it's mainly a light, pretty cinnamon scent. If vetiver frightens you I'm not getting any vetiver from this at all.
Enigma (Suitable for all genders, Iso Super E is rumored to have pheromonic qualities. We find the scent delicately wild... a transparent veil morphing with pulsations of subtle musk, dry woods, faint ambergris.)
Yes indeed to all of the above -- I bought a rollerball of this without testing it first, and I'm glad I did. It is a wonderful layering scent. ISO-E smells pretty distinct to me, though everyone has a different impression of it; for me it's very similar to cedar with ~something else~ making it magical and rounding it out. IMHO it's a really nice 'foundation' for floral scents.
Foxfire (Ghost Fire blend of ambres blanc infused white sugar with sexy swirls of jasmine aldehydes, and night flowering nardo.)
This is quite close to Ghost Fire, but there's a sweetness that's a little artificial to my nose. See my review of Calliope; I believe it's the same sugar note there. I didn't love it (however, I did love Ghost Fire!), but if you like Calliope you might love this! Didn't get much jasmine.
Fume Oud a La Vanille (Crushed tonka beans, woodsmoked amber, and bourbon vanilla aged with oud wood)
Alright, so, ouds of all kinds scare me. 99% of the time they don't work, I smell like a cat box, and I have to scrub them off. I feared this one, but I love vanilla, so I tried it! And happily this was really nice -- no indolic oud, hooray! It's a lovely 'masculine' vanilla. If Smoke and Mirrors was too much smoke for you but you want something in that neighborhood, this might be a nice option.
Gateau d'Anniversaire (A festivity of fresh baked, delicately spiced golden cake drizzled with rosewater-strawberry glaze.)
This was the biggest no for me -- it smelled like mayonnaise the first time I tried it a few days out of the mail. I've let it settle for a couple of weeks now, and the mayonnaise is thankfully gone! Now it smells a bit like cinnamon gum, but after a few hours it gets a bit waxy on me.
Ghost Fire (A luminous attraction of ethereal white ambers. Hauntingly beautiful.)
One of the standouts of my orders; this is just so gorgeous. I think it serves a similar purpose as Luminae -- a close to the skin, you-but-better scent. A floaty, shimmering amber veil. This also has great staying power, which I love in a subtler scent.
Honored Ghosts (Earl Grey tea, Black Raspberry Creams, Rosewater-Saffron Syrup, Cinnamon Honey, White Amber, Vanilla Incense)
Cinnamon dominates again! Wet this was initially the most gourmand-cakey of the gourmand scents I tried, but dry the cinnamon kinda crashed the party. It's really similar to Enchanted Plumcake for me. Didn't really get any rosewater-saffron or tea.
La Belle Epoque (A glorious blend of precious florals including Jasmine Sambac, Tuberose, Iris, Rose, and Lily of the Valley blended with Plum, Apricot, Tahitian Vanilla, Blonde Amber, Bitter Almond, and Oakmoss)
Another absolute standout, and the most 'perfumey' of the scents I tried! I looove this. Wet it was a little cologne-y and I was struggling to pick up much. It became one of my favorites as it dried and developed on my skin and became fresher and more feminine. It's lovely, and incredibly well-blended; if any of these notes scare you I'd recommend trying a sample anyway, because I had a hard time picking out any one note in particular. If you told me this was an exact recreation of a 1900s perfume I'd believe it! Super elegant.
Les Mysteres (An opulent, resinous blend of aged frankincense, black figs, labdanum, dark amber, Russian tea, swirled with a trio of sensual musks.)
This was much less dark than I expected -- it was mainly fresh figs to my nose! I liked it, but I think a sample is enough. I get little whiffs of frankincense when this is dry.
Luminae (Skin-glow. A 'your skin but better' enchantment to create a sensual olfactory radiance. Softly alluring as candlelight. Luminae works in unique alchemy with feminine skin chemistry to create a fragrance that glows with creamy luminescence.)
I had mixed feelings about Luminae, but if you are a beeswax lover I bet you'll love this! On me it was sweet, but kind of oddly waxy (I get the reference to candlelight for sure). It has great staying power -- it lasted for hours on me. I think Ghost Fire is my version of Luminae, though :)
Madam Pearl (Fine white tea leaves, delicate bone china, a parchment letter from a mysterious stranger, a menage a trois of elegant vanillas, and a piquant pinch of aphrodisiac white pepper.)
This was definitely the most atmospheric of the samples I tried! The notes hit me in the order they're listed with the exception of the pepper and the bone china, which I took as the light spiciness and cleanness that was under everything. At its core it's a lovely tea scent.
New Beginnings Alchemy (Iris, Heliotrope, Lavender, Neroli, Figwood, Cloudberry, Mandarin orange peel, golden musks)
This was Alkemia's January special gift bottle. It's a soft floral; I didn't get much muskiness.
Old Books and Fresh Flowers (Fresh neroli orange flowers and heliotrope blossoms pressed between the delicate paper pages of a leather-bound book.)
This was very very very faint on me. My initial impression was paper scented with fresh flowers, but the leather comes up a bit when it dries. It faded really fast -- I'll let this one settle for a few more weeks to see how it does.
Salome (A ruthlessly sensual philter of magnolia blossoms, bitter orange, black grapes, cognac, Queen of the Night, violet leaf, Tunisian orange blossom, dark plum, bourbon vanilla, mysore sandalwood, tonka bean, haitian vetiver, cedar, and red oud.)
Another incredibly well-blended floral! Where I found New Beginnings soft and La Belle Epoque rich and elegant, I'd characterize this one as a bright floral. It sweetens just a touch when dry.
Sandscape (Sun warmed beach sand, Atlantic ocean breezes, the saline-aquatic scent of drying sea water on skin, and the faintest hints of tanning oil and seaweed.)
I was so excited for this one, since I grew up near the beach on the Atlantic and this description is how I'd design a scent around childhood beach trips. This is definitely aquatic, and is a really wearable one. I think it's missing the expected sand/dustiness, and is a bit sharp when wet. Dry it reminds me a little of Skin So Soft.
Silken Tent (Candied angelica, chrysanthemums, white flowering Nardo, clove flowers, jasmine-scented rice pudding, blonde caramel, infused with golden amber.)
Wowie, is this gorgeous! I think this is a pretty common Alkemia fave, and I get it. Sometimes scents that include rice are a little too salty for me, but not so here: this is a perfectly sweet, rich, carmelized floral that is well blended with a Goldilocks-perfect throw. Will be getting a big bottle!
Smoke and Mirrors (Woodsmoke and Vanilla.)
I got a big bottle of this, because it was a favorite of my first sample order! It smells like you were wearing a lovely vanilla hair oil and sat around a campfire for a few hours. The smoke note is so, so incredibly accurate to how an outdoor fire smells, but the vanilla prevents it from being too-too.
The Romance of Lust (Randy dirt-sexy patchouli, black vanilla, salaciously sticky honeycomb, and a darkly concupiscent amber infused with botanical pheromones.)
Whoo! This is a really, really nice honey scent! The patchouli and vanilla and amber combine to make it almost chocolatey. It's super rich and has great throw, so a little goes a long way, but this feels like a scent that straddles the gourmand-perfume line nicely.
The Wild Atlantic Way (Yellow Gorse, Hawthorn, Broom flowers, Bog Myrtle, Dark Moss, Oceanic Ambergris)
Another one I got a bottle of after sampling! Oddly enough, I think this is closer to my childhood-ocean-memories than sandscape! This reminds me of running in the park near the bay -- it is oceanic without ever being aquatic, which I so love. It smells like damp, marshy plant life.
Witching Hour (Kyphi Incense, Smokey Oud, Van Van herbs, Caramels, Aged Rum, Rose Petals, Black Vanilla)
I had the weirdest experience with this one: it smelled like almost nothing to me in the bottle or on my skin when I got it. But after a few weeks of aging it woke up, though! I get a strong head shoppy waft of incense when this is wet. It lightens up a smidge when it's dry -- there's an almost soapy-sharp undertone, I'm guessing from the herbs. I never get the vanilla or caramel -- it's an herbal incense, true to its name.
Ydalir (Fossilized amber, Oakmoss absolute, Siberian Black Pine, Smoked juniper tar, Balsam pine)
This is dark. Like what a dark, grim, primordial Siberian forest god would smell like. It was too rich for my blood, but if you want a really moody-mood, this might be your jam.
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[US][Sell/swap][Perfume/Body] Samples decants full Sizes from so many houses~ Alkemia, Arcana, Astrid, BPAL, Solstice, Possets, NAVA, D&F, Cocoapink, Wicked Good and more!

Sorry this is so long.. I might have a problem. Shipping is $4.50. I can't guarantee private messages or chats get items requested, so reply here for that sexy timestamp!
!~Happy to decant from most bottles in 1 or 2ml! I might be willing so sell bottles I'm decanting from, so just ask if you're interested in Queen Crossbones or whatever and we'll come up with a fair price. ×# after an item denotes the amount of decants left in the bottle!
Some labels might be oil stained. Happy to take pics if you want. I'm always down for a swap, so send your lists my way! I'm constantly updating so check back often, and don't be afraid to ask any questions/ask if I have something not listed, cheers!
Alkemia
Andromeda's Curse samples $2
Arcana 1ml decants $4.5
Astrid decants $3.5
Bath Sabbath:
BPAL All full unless noted.
Samples/decants $2 if not priced otherwise. (if you're looking for something not here, I might have it or be able to decant!)
-Moonflower and Orris: A celestial dreamscape. $4
BPTP Hair Gloss/Atmos Decants 3ml/$2 5ml/$4
Bloodbath 10ml rollerball $6
Cocoa Pink 2.5ml oil samples $5
Linen Spray Decants 3ml/$1.5 5ml/$2.5
CP Other New, only sniffed.
Death and Floral Take all 5 rollerballs for $35! Or $10 each
Nihilistic Winter Set
Deconstructing Eden
Fantôme
Firebird $2
Haus of Gloi
Hexennacht samples/decants $2-3
Immortal Perfumes
MX Perfume
NAVA $3/ Take a NAVA for $20 and free shipping on your order!
Nui Cobalt Samples $3
Possets samples $3/ Take all Possets samples/decants for $50 and free shipping on your order!
Redwood Alchemy
Samples $3
Siren Song Elixirs
Smelly Yeti
Stereoplasm
Solstice Scents 1ml samples $3
EDP samples $6 (PBM, only sprayed 1 or 2 times)
5ml Rollerballs
Strange South samples/decants $3
Sucreabeille
Twinkle Apothecary Take both for $18
Wicked Good 10ml oil rollerballs $14
Other
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vetiver smells so good video

Top Ten Fragrances for Masturbation Does jojoba oil smell good? Review Guerlain Vetiver Best Of Perfume Reviews 2020 - YouTube Perfume Vetiver L.T.Piver Unboxing e Primeiras Impressões My Favourite Perfumes Collection  Part V (Still Smelling ... Ten Classic Designer Men's Fragrances you must smell ... When to Apply Essential Oils: Creating

One of Mancer’s recent releases is Vetiver Sensuel, which immediately smells like a mix of light vetiver with citruses and florals. Some notes that seem to stand out are a mix of citruses (lemon, orange, bergamot, lime), pepper, vetiver, mint, patchouli, and a blended base of woods and musk, mainly. So it’s a formula that seems like it’ll produce an agreeable perfume, and that’s largely true in my wearing of it. There’s not much to dislike; it’s very easy to wear. Vetiver is a grass that grows native to Haiti, India, and Indonesia. Guerlain Vetiver smells of a very green Haitian vetiver grass mixed with tobacco and a lot of woody notes. It smells really like a walk in a forest, in a fresh but somewhat dark style that evokes masculinity. It is perhaps the reference vetiver fragrance, and in my opinion the greatest one (followed by Encre Noire) - and I've tried quite a few vetiver fragrances. As for performance, even the modern iteration of Guerlain ... Creed's Original Vetiver speaks for itself with its very classy quality - like the smell of honeysuckle with dew on grass on a cool morning. Lasts a LONG time on me, without becoming offensive. Has a mildly soapy sensation suggested greatly by scents like Gendarme V and Thierry Mugler Cologne. If so, this may be the moment for vetiver to shine. As Malle puts it: "Vetiver has an understated sex appeal. It doesn't brag 'Hey, admire my manhood.' It's not a scent that says 'I'm a hairy, debonair kind of a guy.'" Thank goodness for that, since I, for one, am over those hairy, debonair kinds of guys once and for all. And strangely enough, neither am I going to miss those scantily clad babes. Perfumer: Jerome Epinette Key notes: African marigold, bergamot, buchu, lemon, neroli, cyclamen, jasmine petals, violet, black amber, Moroccan cedarwood, musk, vetiver. Originally launched in 2009, it’s easy to understand why Byredo Bal d’Afrique EDP remains one of the Swedish niche brand’s biggest sellers. So should everybody be making their own hand sanitizer at home instead, as numerous social media how-to posts propose as an answer to the world’s sanitizing woes? Li Wong, a qualified vintage ... In the heart notes, a smooth, tender/clean vetiver aroma joins the pungent rose geranium; the vetiver slowly intensifies and melds with geranium leaf to produce an almost-smoky rose-vetiver accord. Only in the extreme dry down did I detect almost-solo, light-as-air vetiver mixing with barely-there sandalwood. too much focus on the bitter sweet pamplemousse and too little room for the vetiver. The vetiver here only gives a subtle pepperiness in the dry down, and smells more like vetiver infused mineral water

vetiver smells so good top

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Top Ten Fragrances for Masturbation

Ten good juices to help get your juices flowing, so to speak. Also referred to as “unrefined”, cold-pressed jojoba oil is the. from chemicals and additives to make it look and smell good. Organic Jojoba Oil- Vetiver Aromatics It is quickly abso coconut ... Salutations good people! More of my favourite perfumes and scents. LoL. Here's another part of I have no clue of how many parts of some of my favourite scent... Unboxing e Primeiras Impressões perfume Vetiver Unboxing do Perfume Vetiver LT Piver Sigam-me no grupo de perfumes Perfume Friends do Facebook e no meu Instagram. When should you apply Essential Oils? When you want to make a deodorant that's all natural and gentle. I absolutely love this recipe! It’s a little different... Skip navigation Sign in. Search Derrick perfume This is the dark horse. Time to put on the black leather jacket and get on your ride, this is what this for. Do what you can to get a vintage... Follow up Review on Rasasi Woody and Pebbles by Vivarea after testing them for 1 week. Better alternative to Encre Noire?! Presentation & First Impressions h... Is this the benchmark vetiver and if so is it for everyone? Watch the review to find out. ... Smells Good 1,780 views. 14:10. Guerlain Vetiver Extreme Fragrance Review (2007) - Duration: 11:17 ... You know I’m always tryin to put you on to new and exciting products! If you’re looking for cheaper alternatives to your favorite (expensive) fragrances, you should consider fragrance oils ...

vetiver smells so good

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